My recommendation would be to go with the a cheaper printer first like the Ender3. Then keep track of:
Your average print size (or if you have parts that you want to print but cannot because they are too large)
The complexity of your parts (would your parts benefit from water soluble support?)
How often are you printing (are you printing a couple times a week or 24/7?)
These questions will inform your next printer. Most people have found that the Ender3 suits most of their needs. Others find that they need a more robust printer with a better extruder. People that need a massive build area almost always have to build their own printer.
P.S. Awesome drones! I will know who to contact if I ever start working on a DIY drone video.
Dr D, good evening!
Thanks for your kind words!
Mostly I want to start with simple things I need like geared follow focus rings for lenses, lens caps etc. But I need them to be a little rubbery, not completely brittle, and be temperature and wear-and-tear resistant. So I’d guess the material I’d be needing would be out of the ordinary, and that might in turn affect the type/configuration of printer I’d be needing, correct?
Thanks!
And yes, I did the entire DIY drone route well before I bought the commercial ones, and as you can see the two big heavy-lifter drones at the back are mainly CF rods and plates, plus 3-D printed parts. Cool stuff!
Sorry for my delayed response! It seems like you would want to print those focus rings out of TPU. One commercial name of this polymer is Ninjaflex. There is different stiffness that are available.
For printing TPU its highly recommended to have an extruder that has the shortest path between extrusion drive and nozzle. In the video I referred to this type of extruder as a “direct extruder”. You wouldn’t want a “bowden extruder”.
Hi. I really appreciate your tutorials and advice. I was going through the Zidex component list and found that the Micro Limit Switch on the list is not available on openbuilds anymore. What switch do you recommend?
Loved your videos and the one of the Zidex printer really got me excited. I am looking at building it in a larger format. Are you aware of anyone doing this? I am hoping to have a build volume of approximately 200mm square. Do you have any advice?
I read a comment on Reddit by a mechanical engineer who said a well-designed 3D printer can be made with wheels, smooth rods or linear rails, but that wheel based systems require more maintenance over time. Do you feel the same way? Could this be why Prusa still uses smooth rods? Or do you think it’s more about cost for them?
I think longevity is what is at play here. Wheel based systems will have a shorter lifespan. That plastic on metal interface will wear down the wheels. So yes as the wheels wear down you may have to tighten the eccentric spacer, but the time that it takes to do that is negligible. I have a CNC router that uses the V-wheel system, which I have put hundreds (if not thousands) of hours on and I have only had to adjust one wheel on a cart and that was just a precautionary measure. However, eventually these wheels will wear down. A well maintained linear rail or rod system should last indefinitely. However, you do have to apply lubrication every once and a while, which would count as maintenance. My advice for people is this. If you are 3D printing 24/7 or selling 3D printed parts then the extra reliability of a linear rail system is worth the extra cost.
Great build guide. I noticed in an earlier comment you said that if one attempted to build the Zidex with a larger print area, issues with the cantilevered axes could arise. If I understand the build correctly, this would just be an issue with the two X-axes, yes? If so, any issues with increasing the dimensions of the Y and Z axes? I have no specific dimension in mind for the Y axis at the moment, just bigger, but perhaps 600mm for the Z axis.
Hi Basil,
The truth be known, you get what you pay for. If you don’t need much performance then just get the cheapest that you need. However, if you want top of the line performance, get the latest. I’ve got the DUET2+Expansion board. I can use 10 stepper motors. It’s expensive, but I need to use at least 7 steppers.
Hi App-o-matix,
There are advantages to using a cantilevered axis. One advantage is the ability to use more extruders in a 3d print bed size as compared with less extruders from a non-cantilevered printer (most 3d printers). You may not understand what I’m talking about, so wait till I build a printer with this. I should be done by July. Trust me, I analyzed the Zidex cantilevered design for MONTHS until I finally discovered a big advantage.
Hi Dr. D Flow, sorry if I am being blind but I was looking for the G-code you mentioned around the zidex 3D printer. I am designing my own printer that uses swap out tool heads instead of dual extrusion, as a way to print multiple materials. The thing that makes it relevant is I am using a duet 2 ethernet to control the printer. I was looking for any advice regarding the g code programming of this, especially with regards to the bed levelling with different tool ends. I am hoping to hit the z endstop with my nozzles as a way to quickly bed level between prints.
Any advice or information pointers would be so appreciated thank you.