Thanks for your quick reply. Just to confirm, you are saying that the oil seal (part 2 below), if seated too deep, rubs against the bearing (part #6) causing the heat.
If I understand you correctly, you use a screwdriver to simply pry out the oil seal (see red arrow on image two)., then slide the new one on and press it in place (just not too deep). So there is nothing else holding it in place and nothing special needed to seat the new seal? If so, I guess I can try just pulling it back a tad and seeing if this helps.
Do you happen to have the item number for the replacement oil seal? I was not able to figure out which one to order from avxseals.com.
Funny. I was talking with Mike at Precision Matthews regarding another issue. I told him about the oil seal and he suggested ordering a TC 45 x 72 x 8. His thoughts were that if the issue is that the seal is pressing against the bearing then use a seal that is not as deep. Iām not sure if this is a good idea because it may just slide up into the spindle further and be harder to remove in the future.
Iām not sure either. Itās funny that this issue came up for me again recently and then you contacted me. I just ordered a seal puller. Tired of destroying seals that arenāt that easy to get. I would try the 45mm size again and donāt recess it as far. Let me know if this works. I would like to go back to the 45mm as well.
I just recād the replacement seal and was about to remove the old one when I noticed that it was seated crooked. If you look at the image, the right side is lower than the left side. This could cause rubbing on the bearing as you noted. Do you have an image of the oil seal wrench you found. I would love to pull this one just a bit. I tried to pry it outā¦ but no luck at all.
I have not tried this one yet so I donāt know if it works very well. That seal is really difficult to get out. I had to drive a screw driver in the outside with a hammer. Destroyed the seal and not the best idea.
Glad to see that I was not the only one struggling to remove the darn thing. I have a feeling that the tool will destroy it as well, but it may be easier to get it out. I will keep you postedā¦ Richard
Hello, Iām getting close to pulling the trigger on purchasing all my motors and stuff for the electrical cabinet. Iāve had the 833Tv for two years, I purchased it because I saw Dr.Dās YouTube video on converting his mill and really wanted my own CNC.
I have no experience with cnc or knowing what goes where in the electrical panel. I would go the DMM route but after some reading and talking to a guy I have been thinking about getting some clear path motors. Would I still have to get everything off the Dr.D flow material list for servos? I know the clear paths have the drives built in them.
Also I thinking about Acorn, will that change anything from Dr.Dās guide?
I have a lathe with Teknic SDās and acorn. And I am currently building another cnc lathe with DMM and acorn. I also have an 833tv with acorn and clearpath ez servos. I like the acorn and they have a new one that can do 6 axis. Lots more $ though.
All of the different steppers and servos have their + and - in my opinion. I donāt have any experience with the DMM yet other than building the cabinet. DMM requires a lot more noise control and extra breakers etc. I would say the extras cost and extra $500-600 over the ez servos and Teknic. Teknic are nice and easy to set up but expensive too. Clearpaths even easier and you can get Chinese knockoffs and save some $. feel free to ask me any questions you have. This is my 5th conversion so I have already made a lot of mistakes that I am happy to help you avoid.
I would suggest that at the very least you should do a hybrid stepper system. These have encoders and if the steppers lose steps the machine stops. Doesnāt always result in saving your part but will save endmills.
On another note. I have an almost complete Heavy Metal CNC conversion kit that I bought in a panic when my mill broke down. I ended up making the bad parts myself for various reasons so I still have it. Let me know if you are interested. I was just going to keep it around but its kind of a waste to have it sit around. I think the only thing I used from the kit was one servo mounting plate and a couple bearings. Both I could replace. These kits had som issues because the factory drilled the mounting holes erratically on the mill so you will have to do some adjusting most likely. We could work out something when you send me measurements and I can check the parts for fitment. It a good kit with double ballnuts.
Thanks for the reply. What clear paths motors did you go with for the XY and Z on the 833?
5 converted machines! Impressive!
How much are you thinking about selling the kit for? And would you be able to check which parts are missing? Sounds like Iād be able to make the missing part and install the whole kit.
I am interested, but I have been working with Arizona CNC on making a new kit. Sounds like he is getting really close to being done with it.
The Arizona kit will be very good. He is excellent. I would stick with that unless you donāt want to wait. He is always really busy. When my mill broke down I contacted him and he was doing some other kits and it was going to be quite a while so I had to go another route.
I will go through the kit tomorrow. Pretty sure its just missing the bearings and a part I can remake now that the mill is running. I paid just under $1000.
Todd if your kit is missing the belt and or gears for the Z axis (since you kindly sent one to me!), let me know, I have a spare set that I ordered from the same mfg Bruce at Heavy Metal was using and would love to pay it forward.
Hello Todd. Quick question. It appears that I am getting excessive chatter. The folks at PM are not too familiar with TTS tool holders. I believe that the problem is that the spindle nose is not flat and is a bit rough as well. Please let me know if you think I am on the right track or totally missing something here as I am totally new to machining. Below are notes/videos I sent to PM. If you think I am making sense, do you think this can be corrected by putting a small grinding stone on parallels in a vise and re-surfacing the mating surface of the spindle nose. I am not too familiar with these stones and not sure what type would be the best and how fast to run it.
Looks like you are on the right track. I canāt help with the grinding. I have no experience with this.
I recently had some chatter issues and found that the spindle bearings were not tight enough. Just food for thought. There is a sweet spot with the bearings that is not really documented well anywhere. Seems that everyone has a different method.
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